October 19th
Having done nothing the previous night, we started the next morning pretty early again (of course this was probably due to the fact that Lindsay, Jordan, and I all squeezed into her bed). Once again, it was absolutely gorgeous outside, and it made us wonder why on Earth we got put on “standfast” in the first place. We all headed to the cyber since Sundays are lay-low days anyway, and after remembering that most are closed on Sunday, we headed over to gringo street (where all the hostels are) and found a cyber that was open. There we ran into Pete, an agriculture volunteer, and Joey, an SBD volunteer from out group. Joey had just gotten out of the hospital (again), and decided to head up to Leon before heading back to his site.
I took off after an hour and met up with Jordan at her house where we just lounged around. Since I’m pretty accustomed to living a tranquilo lifestyle, that’s what we did for the next billion hours it seemed. Lindsay showed up after doing some work at the cyber and went back to Cinco Pinos, and Jordan and I continued to sit around.
You can imagine how exciting that is.
Also, my counterpart called me about 12 times telling me the kids didn’t have money to come to the competition. After I said that this was nothing new, the delegada called me up and said that they needed to go. I still had no answer for her, just saying that my counterpart didn’t help me look for money so we didn’t raise anymore. So I assumed they weren’t coming.
Due to my lack of activity, the only other thing I did was hang out with the TEFL volunteers for a while before watching the Red Sox lose game 7. Ugh.
October 20th
Now with only 2 people in the bed, I slept a whole lot sounder than in the past couple of days. Jordan and I had to get up early for the LEC regional competition, so after a quick breakfast and getting decked out in our finest, we headed over to the building the mayor’s office is in (one of the only buildings in the city with more than one floor). We were having the competition in a ballroom above the mayor’s office, so we had a lot of setup to do.
Jordan ordered around 150 chairs and 20 tables, so we planned on setting that up immediately upon arriving. However, time passed…and some more time passed…and they weren’t there. We got the mayor’s office to donate some chairs and tables but they were far from sufficient. On top of these problems, I got a call from my counterpart at 8 AM, “We’re here” “What??? You’re here? I thought you weren’t coming.” Since my group decided to show up, I had to run back to Jordan’s house to pick up their powerpoint presentation so they’d be able to present during the competition.
I ran across the city and grabbed my flash drive and got back to the mayor’s office before they even showed up – guess I’m just that fast. Unfortunately my professionalism took a hit because the weather was gorgeous and amazingly hot (AKA, I arrived drenched in sweat).
Unfortunately for everyone involved, the tables and chairs didn’t show up for 2.5 hours. Due to this, many people were whining and complaining, but eventually we got around to starting at 10:30. Since my group never told me they were coming, they weren’t on the presentation list, so they’d be going last. Bummer.
All in all, the entire competition went very smoothly. I had the incredibly important role of being the time guy – I got to stop people when they went over the 5-minute time limit for the presentation. The groups that presented really annihilated all the groups that participated in the Chinandega competition. I don’t know if it’s a lack of motivation on the part of the students in that department, the heat, or what, but it was interesting to note that. The way things went, Jordan had 2 groups that got awards, groups from La Paz Centro got the top award (they started an advertising company – and just became an official business in the town), and Brie’s group from Malpaisillo that was selling bees wax candles (also already selling their product), got second place. These were the only two places since only they will continue onto the national competition.
With the end of the competition, I intended to head off to Achuapa and relax the whole way. Whoa did it end up differently than what I thought.
First, my counterpart told me that she needed to go to the doctor, and therefore would not be going back to Achuapa with the students and me. Great, so I have to take care of them. I walked around a bit with the students, bought some things in the market, and then we all caught the camioneta to head over to the bus terminal.
We got to the bus station an hour and a half early, which was good and bad. It was great because the last bus generally has no empty seats on it, but bad because we had to wait for so long for the bus to depart. I killed the time by casually chatting with my students, all of whom had woken up at 1 AM in order to catch the bus that came from León (To make matters worse for my students, the bus that they caught that morning got in an accident and was delayed an hour.) It seemed that my stars had aligned correctly when the bus left an amazing ten minutes early. This meant one thing – I’d be able to get home that much earlier right? Wrong.
Our problems started at the first empalme (an intersection for highways). No more than 20 feet after turning onto the highway that goes towards Malpaisillo, the bus got a flat tire. This was much to the dismay of my students and me in particular. They’d woken up super early in the morning, and I’d been away from Achuapa for so long I really wanted to go back. The whole tire changing process took about 45 minutes before we were finally on our way again. After this, things seemed to be improving – we got to the next empalme in what seemed to be record time. Since we were clipping along so nicely, I kicked back and enjoyed some tunes – we had a mere 2 hours to go after all.
I spoke to soon.
After very little time, we ran into a huge line of cars that were stopped on the highway. Just to give some background information – this highway never has any cars on it. If we see more than 3 cars the whole 2-hour trip on this stretch of highway, it’s a busy day. The driver then broke the news to everybody – the river had flooded the bridge and we had to wait until it got lower so we could cross the bridge. I got out of the bus to go check out the river with my students and we ran into Irene, the volunteer from El Sauce. She had left the competition and hour before we did, and they’d been waiting at the flooded river for about an hour and a half. The bridge normally crosses over a super tiny creek, but now this tiny creek was more of a raging river that was a good 100 feet across. This meant we were to sit and wait for around an hour and a half – luckily, it could’ve been longer. Everybody in the line of cars was completely ecstatic to be able to pass over the bridge after having waited for so long. Each vehicle that crossed the bridge did so to the deafening sound of falling rain, a rushing river, and the cheers of the passengers.
We pushed on and about an hour later we arrived in El Sauce. This arrival was debatable as the bus never actually stopped at the stop, nor took the normal route through the town. I didn’t know we actually we’d actually stopped until we were on our way out of town and past the cemetery that marks the end of town. My students told met that the cobradors said we’d have to sleep in the bus, which I already was aware of. I’d called PC security to ask him about what to do, and he recommended I stay in El Sauce – but since I didn’t know we’d stopped, that was no longer an option.
Time for an experience.
As everybody kept saying, we arrived in Rio Grande (a town in the middle of Achuapa and El Sauce (about 7 miles from Achuapa), the driver stopped the bus and said we weren’t going anywhere until the morning – #@%$! We all got out of the bus to swear, relieve ourselves, and wander aimlessly when a truck appeared out of nowhere. We asked him where he was going and he told us he was headed just outside of Achuapa. “Could you take us as far as you’re going?” Surprisingly, the man said he’d take us – so me, my 4 students, and the other 21 people that were on the bus climbed in the back of this tiny pickup truck (TINY TINY). I was one of the last people in the bus because I had to run back on the bus and grab all my stuff and barely was able to jump in the back before it took off. Unfortunately, due to the number of people and bags we had in the back of the truck, I was left to stand up at the back of the truck, with my legs bent just a bit so I could hold on to a suitcase and the shoulder of one of my students to avoid falling out of the truck as it travelled 30 miles per hour. To make matters more…interesting, this entire time, I’ve been carrying 4 jars of peanut butter. So if you can picture all of the above, and then add 4 jars of peanut butter in a bag I’m holding, that’s what my situation was.
The truck dropped us off at the point that we could see the telephone tower that is in Achuapa, but unfortunately it was still super far away. We now had to walk 20 minutes through the mud, in the pitch-black night. I’d been crouched over with my legs bent for 20 minutes (because my life literally depended on it), so my body barely had the capacity to continue. Not only that, but during this walk, the bag holding my peanut butter bust open and my peanut butter went rolling all over the muddy hill I was now trudging up. I collected my strewn about peanut butter jars and continued the muddy, blind hike down the middle of the Achuapa-El Sauce road. Finally, we saw a truck approaching us and a man got out to illuminate the horribly muddy road that stood between all of us and the truck. I was the first person in the truck followed by my 4 students, and while we waited I proceeded to drop my peanut butter all over the roof of the truck – nearly losing them all.
The truck drove us the last 15 minutes to Achuapa and finally dropped us off at the park. Once again, another problem arose – my students live in the community 5 km away and it was now 9:30 (mind you we left at 3:45 PM, so this normally 2 hour 45 minute ride turned into close to a 6 hour ride). The roads definitely would be horrible, and it’s a dangerous road to travel down at night, so my 2 girl students stayed at my counterpart’s house since she wasn’t home, and my 2 male students came to my house. We were all starving and thirsty, but I could only offer water since I had no food in my house. I could only give my students some sheets, and they ended up sleeping on the floor of my room for the whole night (and they looked like corpses – see picture).
Oh wow – WHAT AN EXPERIENCE!
October 21st
My students and I rolled out of bed (well I did, they got up off the floor) at around 5:30 AM, because my students had to go to school (they actually wanted to even though I told them they didn’t have to). I was exhausted but got up with them because my gate was locked. So like last night, I had to scream for my neighbour to unlock the gate so we could get out. Once they took off, I was left to my own devices. I tried to go back to sleep, but it just wasn’t happening.
I got up and after making a quick breakfast, I went out to buy all the things I couldn’t get earlier due to a lack of funds. What I didn’t realise at the beginning was that a list would’ve been an amazing idea. However, due to whatever reason, I didn’t make one. With all my common sense out the metaphorical window, I made 5 trips to the giant pulperia, 4 trips to the mini-super, and 2 trips to the pulperia in front of the cooperativa. I bought some sheets for my bed (finally), a pillow (it’s total crap), got 100 egg carton palates (going to soundproof my house), a can of tuna fish (I’m going to make a Nica oven out of it after I eat it) and a bunch of negligible foodstuffs.
When I got home and lounged around in my house, my neighbour came over and told me the ‘chela’ stopped by my house on Sunday. This meant but one thing – the new white person in town wasn’t just passing through. I had an English class to teach at 11:30, so I headed down there right afterward to teach the Albergue class with Johanni. For reasons that I wasn’t to clear on, the class was cancelled. I think it had to do with exams or that kids were ditching classes or something, but whatever.
Now done with the only other commitment I had for the day (the spelling bee was postponed because the directora wasn’t there today), I decided to head over to the new volunteer’s house to meet her. I’d never actually been over to her part of town, even though it’s a mere 2 blocks from my house. The road was pure mud and rocks (that’s probably why I’d never been there), and was exceptionally muddy in light of the rainy season. I had to ask a 5 year old where the lady’s house was (Doña Flor, or Mrs. Flower if you were to translate it). I’m always reluctant to follow a Nicaraguan’s directions, so while I was wandering around looking for somebody else to ask, a girl came out of a house and came over to me to tell me the chela wasn’t going to be home for half an hour. Wow – information that comes to you!
I headed back a little bit later, but got lost on the way there (one road too far). While making my way back, I surprisingly saw another white girl. I had no idea if that was the girl I was going to meet or now, so I halfway asked with the question, “¿Usted es…?” She took off her baseball cap to reveal short bright red hair and just nodded her head. I had no idea what that meant, but it was really awkward so I just kept riding down the road where I proceeded to get lost. I hit a dead end, or rather a forest, so I had to double back and go back to pass the awkward white girl who was now sitting on the corner reading something. I finally got back to Mrs. Flower’s house and met the new volunteer in town, Robin. I had some basic questions I needed answered before casual conversation was to proceed, “Where did you come from? What are you doing? How long are you staying?” It was more like an interrogation as first, but eventually we transitioned into normal conversation. She’s working in the clinic of the cooperativa learning acupuncture and holistic medicine, and is from New Jersey. Unfortunately for me, she’s only staying 4 weeks, but hey it’s better than nothing right? We ended up talking for a while because it started raining, and we found out we really had a whole lot in common (including crazy travelling alone). Additionally, it was like a job fair since I gave a run down of what Peace Corps was, what my job was, what I hated, what I liked, if it was hard, etc.
After showing her all the good pulperia’s in town (and where to get a box of Corn Flakes), I stopped by the pulperia across the street from Rene’s bike shop to chat with some of my friends. It then dawned on me that I had yet to plan for my Wednesday 3rd year class at San Sebastián, so I headed over to Esteban’s house to take care of that. I wouldn’t be going because my contact from the Millennium Challenge Corporation was coming to Achuapa tomorrow, so I wanted to get my counterpart ready for the class. I showed up and he was doing laps around the block on his bike because he was bored (according to his wife), but a quick text message later of “I’m in you’re house. Come. We need to plan,” he was there a mere 30 seconds later. I told him I wouldn’t be there and he just told me not to worry about it, school was almost out after all. Then, I hung out and chatted with him and his wife for hours. The conversation bounced back and forth from the education system, to the cyber that’s opening in Achuapa (in a week!!!!!), the Yankees sucking (my counterpart is a huge Yankees fan), the importance of learning another language, and my future plans. On top of that, it revolved around my complete ineptitude with regards to cooking. This ended up being the key phrase as my counterpart’s wife told me I should just stay for dinner, “Done.
I left my counterpart’s house around 8:30 pretty satisfied, and was completely beat. It was a busy day for not doing anything that was truly productive (according to my Peace Corps work report).
October 22nd
I slept like a rock last night, but unfortunately I still woke up at 6 AM. I tried to go back to sleep, but the only thing I could think about was making sure I was awake to fill the barrel in my bathroom and fill my gallon jugs so I could sun them on my roof. So I made a compromise, I’ll go turn on the faucets and then go back to bed and rest until I hear the water when it’s turned on. Of course, the second I went and laid back in bed, the water came on – so I started my day.
I went to take a shower only to remember that I sent all my clothes and towels to be washed…so…my towel ended up being my shirt. The day obviously didn’t start that well, but it’s not like I could just hit the reset button. I did some more errands while I waited for my contact from El Sauce to show up – this came in the form of going to the pulperia again, going to the primary school to talk about the spelling bee (it’s going to be Friday), talking with the delegada about the regional competition, and hanging out with Kenis a bit in the cooperativa. I talked with Kenis for a long time before I realised that I was late for my meeting with my NGO contact. I abruptly left and headed over to the Casa de la Mujer to find Leslie, the grandson of my host mom there. “¿Está Gloria o Ninoska?””No, andan en El Sauce.” Or in English, they were in El Sauce – another day wasted. No matter, I’m great at killing time now. I went and hung out a bit more in the cooperativa with Kenis before heading over to the bike shop and chatting with Rene for a bit. There, a guy who owns a bike with a ridiculous amount of accessories told me that if he were in my position, he “sure as hell wouldn’t be here in Nicaragua.” Then I economically broke it down to him and explained to him that I’ve been able to travel more than any of my friends, and do everything I’ve wanted to do with my life so far without incurring any debt, even though I’ve never really made that much in my life. Thank you economics degree.
With all my new cooking gadgets in my house, I tried to make some lunch. I had bit plans – beans, rice, fruit, vegetables, and peanut butter. However, after doing a couple rounds of the town, I found nothing but beans. So I ate some beans, rice, and some guineo (banana like but a bland tortilla like taste) that my neighbour gave me. Mmmm….starch, starch, and starch. To make the meal even more healthy, I had some white bread – thank god for that multivitamin.
I was going to head over to the institute at 1 to meet Johanni for another English class only for her to call me to say she’d be 10 minutes late – 10 minutes, how un-Nicaraguan of her. Her English class wasn’t the best for me – maybe it was my crappy diet I’ve had lately. She’s improving incredibly, but some days I just don’t have the patience. It’s days like this when I miss a good Colorado microbrew (ahem – gift idea).
I did some exercises in the park where I had a 3 or 4 year old talking to me the whole time:
“Cheleeeeeeeeeeeeee! What are you doing?”
“I’m doing exercises.”
“Those aren’t exercises!”
“Sure they are, I’m doing pull-ups. It’s one of the best exercises you can do!”
“You don’t do them very high – only to the bar. My dad can do pull-ups as high as the sky.”
On top of buying more stuff. I was keen to make my dinner tonight, so I walked all around town carrying random things as I did them in no particular order – I bought some pots, bought some bread, bought some cheese, bought some pineapple, and checked some other pulperia’s for food. While I did all this, I passed my house 4 times. Upon arriving to my house, my neighbours came and sat in my kitchen to watch the “experiment” I was about to conduct. They seemed completely flabbergasted that I intended to eat pineapple at night, and on top of that, that I was going to eat it with rice, beans, and cuajada. The dinner filled my belly, and really that’s all I ask from my cooking. So…mission accomplished.
Here’s hoping for a productive tomorrow? Maybe?
October 23rd
The productive part about today – I had a class to teach. Aside from that…my productiveness is debatable. Today was just a day where if I had somebody observing what I did (one of you readers for example), you’d probably be dying, “Oh my god how can you do this? This is sooooo boring.” Or in other words, I did a lot of sitting around. However, as I’ve noted before: for me, a successful day is one where I finish it and I’m satisfied with what happened and don’t feel it was wasted.
So I woke up before my alarm, got ready and headed over to I. San José to teach my class for the first time in 2 weeks (I missed last week because of the Chinandega regional competition). The class went pretty well, and by that I mean that I had nobody trying to take pictures of me the entire class. They were pretty well behaved (well, for them), but this was definitely due to the fact that they have an exam next Thursday. Speaking of which, this next exam brought out another student I’d never seen before. I’ve been teaching at this school since July, and it was the first time he’d shown up to class. He’s…going places…yep, he sure is.
After the class, my official professional, working Richard day was over. So I set out to do some errands – unfortunately as of lately this has meant stopping by the huge pulperia to buy something I hadn’t realised I’d needed. Today, this came in the form of a smaller knife, and a container to store a half-pound of cook beans. Instead of slaving over a pot (well, not really slaving), but instead of buying a pot to cook an absurd amount of beans, I outsourced the work to a friend of mine who did it for free. This was another sound economic move by me, and a worthy headline in the Achuapa newspaper (if we had one). I’d been buying a bag of cooked beans for 5 cords (that bag lasts me 3-4 meals), so by getting them for free now, I’ve saved myself around 79 dollars over the rest of my Peace Corps service.
Pleased with my savvy-ness, I set out to do the next significant thing on the agenda – buy some vegetables so I didn’t have to eat just beans and rice for lunch. It’s been raining like crazy, so the Estelí bus hasn’t been bringing fruits and vegetables that much, so selection was definitely lacking. I ended up getting a tomato, a chiltoma, and something that looked like an orange. After inquiring, the fruit stand lady just told me:
“Oh it’s super sweet! Super sweet!”
“Um…ok, give me one of those.”
“You just want one?”
“Yea, that should be enough.”
“But they’re so sweet!”
I resisted the pressuring fruit stand lady and just got one, came home and put them in the fridge. Coincidentally, when lunch rolled around, all I did was eat rice and beans and the half of a pineapple from the previous night. It then started to rain.
Some 3 hours of yoga later, after the rain had passed, I headed over to Esteban’s house (my counterpart) because I was pretty much told by his wife that I had to come. I spent the majority of the night over there chatting with them about this and that. Oh, and the exciting part was them showing me this amazing pillow – the softest pillow I’ve ever experienced in my life. Since his wife is going to León tomorrow, she said she’d grab me two of them – I just couldn’t resist! Also, more amazing news – the cyber in Achuapa opens on Wednesday – WEDNESDAY. I’ll finally be connected with the rest of the world again, except this time it will be on my terms.
Week from today, I’m going on vacation.
October 24th
Today I was finally able to do my spelling bee – and it was a huge success. I thought of this idea a while back after seeing how poor everybody’s spelling skills were, and the competition was finally realised.
I showed up at the school at 8 AM to give the test, which was met with the groans of most of the students of 6th year. With all the moaning and whining they were doing, I was convinced that everybody would fail the exam, but that’s far from what happened. After the exam, it was a field day, so the kids no longer had class. During this time, I graded all the exams to find that of the 29 people who took the exam, 10 people got a 75% or higher – remarkable for a Nicaraguan classroom. There was one girl who got 3 out of 40 wrong and even remembered some spelling rules that she was able to transcribe. It was super satisfying to see that so many people cared enough to study a bit. The best part of it was a girl in the class, Adriana, telling me how poorly she did and how she didn’t even want to know what she got – only to find out she got the second highest score in the class. Not only did she surprise everybody in the class, but she amazed herself as well. She was just so happy about it. I’m going to plan with the directora and the professor of the class next week for the last oral round, so they can implement the second phase of the competition while I’m on vacation the first week of November.
Following the spelling bee, I bought some honey (good natural sugar), finally got my housing contract together with (I’d never been able to get a hold of the lawyer in town), and talked with Kenis a bit before meeting Johanni to help her plan an English class at 1 PM.
Later that afternoon, since the gym is still closed (my buddy Edys might have dengue, and he always has the key), I went and worked out in the park in front of San Sebastián. Unsurprisingly, a bunch of kids showed up to inquire as to what it was I was doing. I took advantage of this by explaining exercises, the importance of being active, and then turning it into a competition (everybody in this country is a sucker for a good competition). I even branched out a bit from my normal preschool group and got a high school kid to participate as well. This has got to be somewhat sustainable yea?
Amazingly, it didn’t rain today (thank GOD), so I took advantage of the beautiful weather by taking a bike ride around town and dropping by to say hello to everybody I know. After my ‘house calls,’ I headed over to Esteban’s house to plan for our 3rd year class for next Wednesday. However, when I arrived he was nowhere to be seen – he was at the stadium apparently. I waited in front of the house with the girl who takes care of his kid (she’s 23 but looks like she’s 12 or 13 tops), met my counterpart’s parents, and then was brought by his wife across the street to her parents house (apparently they’d wanted to meet me). While I was there, I met her dad (who was in the middle of getting a hand massage), who owns a cow farm in Achuapa. He then told me about the heritage of his family dating back to the late 1800’s. Apparently his grandfather was from France and went to the Dominican Republic where he worked for a few years. While he was working there, he heard about some sort of huge project going on in Panama – the Panama Canal. There he worked on the canal from start to finish before hearing about some sort of mining project going on in Nicaragua. This project, mining gold, brought him to Achuapa in the 1910’s, where he and his family have lived since. It was pretty cool hearing about his family story, before he digressed into a 30-minute story about bull riding. With all the talk about the farming life, he told me I could borrow a horse whenever I wanted – that’s cool.
I guess I’ve really got the community behind me.

My students sleeping on my floor after our nightmare bus ride

This is what leather shoes look like after not wearing them for 5 days during rainy season. Yes, that´s mold.