October 31st to November 13th
My first day of vacation began at 3 in the morning. I had to wake up for that dreaded 4 AM bus and also because I was a tad worried about not getting everything packed, thrown away, and settled before taking off for a two week vacation. On top of the stress of ensuring everything was ready for me to leave, I was still dealing with my bacteria infection, the one that waged a war in my stomach for several hours each time I took a Cipro. I was on my last day of taking Cipro, so I hoped that it wouldn’t obliterate me on the 5-hour bus ride to Managua. While that was on my mind, I realised as soon as the bus pulled out of Achuapa that I’d left a bunch of food in the fridge, and some bananas handing from the steel beam above my refrigerator – oops.
Magically (I don’t know what else to attribute it to), I arrived in Managua unscathed. I spent most of the day there hanging out with volunteers and dealing with the med office (Leptospirosis hit Achuapa and a couple of people died, so now I’m required to take preventative medicine, Doxycycline). While I was in the office, I was also able to take advantage of the tasty restaurants that are around the office. Since I’d been sick, I’d eaten very little the previous 4 days, and what I had eaten had been limited to the very unimpressive meals, which I’m competent enough to prepare.
Following my day in the office, I headed to Masatepe – my training town – to meet up with a couple of my friends that live there, and begin my vacation. The ride to Masatepe was just as I’d always experienced it – with millions of people crammed in the microbus. Also, surprisingly enough, I ended up taking the bus with Jordan’s old host family’s sister, Iriana. So much for sneaking into Masatepe. I came into Masatepe via San Marcos and the bus dropped me off on the main road, leaving me to walk the main drag in town to get to my friend’s house. At this point, I was hit with a pretty significant bit of nostalgia, and as I walked past the gym, the guy who owned it was out front and asked me, “Hey chele! Where’ve you been?” It was funny to see that I hadn’t been to his gym since July but he still remembered me. Perry, a TEFL volunteer who is finishing her service in December, was kind enough to let me stay at her place during the first leg of my vacation. Furthermore, no more than two blocks later I ran into the rest of Jordan’s old host family. Her host mom is super gossipy, so it was set in stone that everybody was going to know that I was now there.
I arrived at Perry’s house soon afterwards and we sat around, chatted a bit, and bought some food for dinner that night. Oliver, one of my good friends while I was in Masatepe, was doing errands in Masaya, so the plan was to meet up with him later that night. Furthermore, Sonia, a TEFL volunteer from my group who lives in Masatepe, was going to meet up with us to make some tasty vegan food later that night.
As it turned out, Oliver was his typical Nicaraguan self and showed up a good 3 hours late, but redeemed himself by bringing food from his parents Comedor. However, with this free food, our plans to make vegan food that night were thwarted. Oliver hung out and chatted with Perry and I for a good couple of hours until we both were at the point where sleep became more important than chatting with Oliver about how he’s always late.
The following day, I somehow slept in until 8:30, which for me is a miracle. Well rested, I grabbed some breakfast at the Pali and set out to make a couple of visits to people I knew when I lived in Masatepe. Much like the day before, I had people who hadn’t seen me in months greeting me in the streets and asking where I’d been. Some of the people that I had conversations with I couldn’t even remember.
I was planning on just stopping by the house of some kids in my youth group before I ran into Armando Jose, my old host brother. “Where are you going? To the house?” “Uh…huh…yea, that’s right, I’m going to the house, who’s there?” Since I was unable to sneak into my former neighbourhood, I stopped by my old house and visited with the host family for a while. Things didn’t really end on the highest note, but since my old host mom wasn’t there, the reunion was pretty painless.
After my forced reunion, I stopped by a kid in my youth group’s house, Javier. Javier and his brother Ariel – probably 2 of the most intelligent kids in the entire town of Masatepe (Ariel was on TV for being the top student in the town – were both in their yard and appeared elated to see me. I had a pretty good relationship with Javier, so as soon as I walked in, he started looking for his chessboard.
The chessboard was nowhere to be found, so after making one, we played a couple of games of chess for old times sake and I chatted it up with him and Ariel to see how things have been going. Their mom, a teacher in the institute I taught at in Masatepe also showed up and I gave her the breakdown on my first 3 months in Achuapa. After finishing my games with Javier I said goodbye and just got out the gate when their Mom yelled at me, “Where do you think you’re going? Get back here. You need to eat.” So my exit was delayed a bit longer so I could eat lunch (no complaints from this end – free food is good food.
I headed back to Perry’s house and edited some of her law school essays before Oliver called me up:
“You said you’d call me.”
“Yea…I ended up playing more chess games than I thought.”
“You’re turning into a Nicaraguan.”
Oliver eventually came over to the house and Perry, Oliver, Sonia and I all headed over to enjoy the latest (and greatest) beer from the Nicaraguan beer machine. After a couple, we all parted ways because Oliver had to head to work and Perry had to continue writing her law school essays. While they did that, Sonia and took a hike around Masatepe. That effectively killed took up the rest of the day.
The day after Claudia and Giulia arrived, we woke up at a god-awful hour so we could make one of the first busses that headed down to Rivas. They were actually pretty lucky that we got such a nice school bus. This one had curtains, a TV (was my first bus ride with a TV), they sold drinks in an organized manner, and they had two cobradors. The ride itself was pretty easy, and we were the only people to get off as the bus was to continue on to Costa Rica.
“Hey chele! Chele! Do you need a taxi?”
“Yea, how much?”
“60 cordobas for all of you.”
“Pfft. You’re crazy, I’ll ask somebody else.”
“Fine! 40 for all of you!”
I refused to make this a silent taxi ride, so I chatted up the driver the whole time, which ended up lowering the overall price by 5 cordobas. We got to San Jorge (the boat from Ometepe leaves from here), only to realise that a boat didn’t leave for a couple of hours. Claudia and Giulia grabbed some food while we waited and I went to use a bathroom that looked pretty nice (have to take advantage of things like that). Unfortunately, it cost 5 cords to use the bathroom (which I bitched and moaned about), so negotiating that taxi fair 5 cords cheaper was rendered pointless.
The boat ride to the island was in a nice ferry with air conditioning (who would’ve thought???) and took around an hour and a half to get into Moyogalpa. We grabbed some money at the ATM and I asked around about getting to Charco Verde. There were plenty of people willing to offer us a taxi for anywhere from $10 to $25, and kept telling me the ride would take around an hour and a half by car. I told them all no and went about looking for information about the bus. “How much does the bus cost and how long does it take to get to Charco Verde?” “10 cordobas and about 30 minutes.” So on top of the bus costing 20 times less, it also got there an hour earlier…interesting.
The bus dropped us off a half kilometre from the entrance to Charco Verde, giving us a scenic and “rustic” walk to our hospedaje. The hospedaje itself was right on the lake, but since the rainy season had ended just days earlier, the hiking trail through the nature reserve was completely underwater. Furthermore, the beach was almost completely flooded. We were pretty exhausted from the trip there, so we just chilled out the whole day and night and watched the sunset, planning instead to explore the island the following day.
The next day (election day), for an exorbitant amount, we got a guy to drive us to a bunch of sites around the island. The sites, a precolombian museum with petroglyphs, Ojo de Agua (a natural spring), Playa Santo Domingo (a beautiful beach which unfortunately was completely flooded), and then to Altagracia where we slept during the night. The day was pretty much over when we arrived in Altagracia (even though it was 3 PM when we rolled in), and I met up with my friend Joanna who is an English volunteer in the town. We delivered some school supplies and then and hung out with her and her host family for a couple hours before she had to take off for one of her English classes. It was around 6 PM by the time I got back, so I took to the television to watch the results of the U.S. presidential election. It wasn’t going as quickly as I was hoping (but who knows why I was hoping it’d go quickly in the first place?), so Claudia, Giu, and I took a walk through the town to kill some time.
Following the walk, Giu and Claudia went to sleep, and I parked myself in front of their hotel’s TV and watched the election results. The Nicaraguan news presented the election in such a way that was not very conducive to actually telling us the results, so I only was able to read the ticker at the bottom of the screen and look at the two bubbles that showed how many votes Obama had won, and how many McCain had won. To make things worse, while I was watching this, the Liberales had a huge party outside the hotel, so I couldn’t hear anything the announcers were saying about the election if I wanted to. I sat like this for a good 2 hours (until a little before 10 PM) before I got frustrated with the lack of action. My quick solution was to change the channel to Acción 10. Unfortunately, Acción 10 had absolutely no coverage of the U.S. election, and after waiting for a couple minutes, I switched back to the crummy channel I’d been watching. “Obama – 297, McCain – 145,” then at the bottom of the screen a was the message, “¡Obama gana la presidencia!” I was shocked. Not only did he win, but he won at 10:15 – flipping early! It was an absolute blowout! I couldn’t believe it (as I’m sure much of the U.S. felt too). Too ecstatic to sit around watching them tally the rest of the votes (which were now being counted in vain), I ran through the hotel telling everybody who wasn’t watching the TV (which was everyone) that Obama won the presidency. The hotel was just full of a bunch of French people, and they all cheered. I then set out to the streets – I had to tell as many people as possible. I ran back to my hospedaje, and though I was extremely tired, I couldn’t go to sleep. I called a handful of people as I stood outside the building where my room was (I was the only one staying in the hospedaje). The owner of the hospedaje, believing that I was locked out, woke up and came with his key to unlock the door. “No, no, no. The door is open, but Obama just won, so I’m super excited!” “Obama won?! Come chele! Let’s watch it on my TV!” So I spent the rest of the night watching the election results with the owner of the hospedaje and his family (thanks for those up to the minute text messages Phil!).
The next morning, I woke up super early, still pumped because of the Obama win (and the Musgrave loss!), and was up at 6 AM. I headed to the shower only to find a dog sleeping in it. Luckily there was another one and I was able to get out of there a mere 20 minutes later after a hug from the owner who was very grateful that I decided to stay in his hospedaje instead of another one.
Claudia, Giulia, and I caught the 7 AM bus and when all was said in done, we were back in Rivas by 10:30, ready to go to our next destination – Granada. On the bus ride from Rivas, I sat next to a man named Eduardo Tercero who I chatted up during the entire trip. He told me about his whole life, what he did, his 11 kids, his home on the Mombacho Volcano, his almond trees, and we talked politics as well. The whole conversation took place while he took swigs of agua caliente (homemade booze), and ate handfuls of peanuts (he even bought me a bag). When we ultimately arrived at his stop, he grabbed his broom that he’d just bought from a guy on the bus, gave me his number and told me I was always welcome to stay at his house if I ever returned to Granada.
The bus from Rivas dropped us off at the far end of Granada, which meant we had to take a trek through the market to get to a hostel. Once we got Claudia and Giulia’s stuff dropped off in the hostel, we set off to explore the city. Surprisingly, mostly due to Giulia’s exuberance, we saw all but one landmark that Granada has to offer tourists by the time the sun set. After deciding our plan for the next day (to head to Masaya), I set off for Avi’s house where I spent the night.
I awoke early to go grab Claudia and Giulia so they could change hostels and we could eat before heading off to the Masaya market. At the market, Claudia and Giulia went shopping for a couple hours while I translated for them and got bargains wherever we went. We also grabbed some pizza and headed to the supermarket before going back to the old market for a bit, then making our way back to Granada for the night. That night was the birthday of a volunteer from Matagalpa who was in town, so we headed to the Irish Bar that night where I enjoyed my first real beer in 6+ months, a Guinness. Ok, I’m lying, I didn’t enjoy one, I enjoyed three in spite of the enormous 75 cordoba price (Hey, I’m vacation). So for the price of those 3 beers I bought, I could have paid my electric bill for 3 months, bought 23 Nicaraguan beers, or paid for a round trip bus fare from Achuapa to Granada. Where are my priorities?
The next day I had training in Managua, while Claudia and Giulia headed for Volcán Mombacho. Training was not too exciting and could’ve been more helpful, but I guess that’s what comments are for. On top of it being training, a bunch of other volunteers were in the office, including ones who were completing their service, so I was able to say goodbye to some of them.
That night was the birthday of my good friend Dianne, so after meeting up with Claudia and Giulia to see how their day went, and decide what our plan was, I took off for Liz’ house with Dianne. As luck would have it, Dianne got a wicked bacterial infection and was pretty much immobilized much of the night – so much for having a happy birthday.
The next day, I woke up super early from being sick and also since I’m always on campo time, and headed to Claudia and Giulia’s hostel. We then headed to breakfast before grabbing their stuff and catching a bus to the UCA in Managua before catching a microbus to León. We got into León around 11 and found out that because of the elections the following day, busses wouldn’t be running until Monday. Due to this, Claudia and Giulia decided they wanted to spend the next 3 days in Estelí instead of León so they hopped a bus there while I decided to wait out the election in León.
With my plans now changed, and having already seen everything León has to offer, I mostly stayed in the hostel until Tuesday rolled around. There had been a lot of violence due to the elections and supposed fraud, that Peace Corps had us on Standfast, so I didn’t know until the last minute if I was going to go to Managua for the LEC national competition or not. After I found out they were still going to have the competition, I was on the first microbus to Managua.
Once in the PC office, I helped the people on the LEC (La Empresa Creativa, the name of the course that I teach) committee with whatever they needed for most of the night. When all was said and done, my project specialist, 2 of the volunteers on the LEC committee (from the previous small business group that arrived a year before my group did), a health volunteer from Matagalpa, and me all headed to a Korean restaurant near the PC office for dinner. After sufficiently dealing with my craving for Kimchi (I blame this craving on you Phil), we headed to a coffee shop and hung out for a bit before going to our hotel.
The next day was the day all us SBD volunteers had been waiting for – the day of the national competition. The competition represents but one thing: the end of our school year. Or in other words, we can finally chill out and start our secondary projects. The setting of the competition was in the incredibly nice Intercontinental Hotel, which is about a 10-minute walk from the Peace Corps office, and the turnout was actually pretty impressive. The ambassador showed up recognized me from eating all his lunch in León, and then shook my hard accordingly. He was only at the competition for a short amount of time as the Nicaraguan press soon after the competition started, bombarded him with questions about the municipal elections held this past Sunday. Soon after these questions started, he left the hotel and took off with all his secret service guys.
Overall, everything went pretty well with few problems interfering with the quality of the competition itself. When everything was said and done, we celebrated Georgia’s (our Program Director) birthday and got ready to either head back to our sites, or for people like me, head to my hotel. However, right as we were about to leave, riots were taking place across the street at the Metrocentro mall. Not surprisingly, PC told us we couldn’t leave the hotel and went and got a bunch of vehicles to transport us all to the office. With this, we were put back on Standfast and most of the volunteers that hadn’t left yet were put up in a hotel by Peace Corps due to all the rioting that was going on around the city.
The next day, I woke up before most and headed back to site. The rainy season ended a while ago, so due to the lack of rain, they’d started repairing the highway, which made the trip exceptionally speedy. The trip from León clocked in at less than 3 hours – amazing. To make it all even better, everybody said how much they missed me. I got discounts at my favourite pulpería (the owner even gave me some beans to bring home), students in the streets were asking where I’d been and when I’d be coming back to school, and I played with some of the kids in the streets.
Friday was much of the same, dropping in to see my friends and whatnot. I also finally did the final round of the spelling bee and it went super well. After the competition though, there wasn’t much to be done. So I just went around visiting people the other day to let them know I was back in town.
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